I love maps, and have done for as long as I can remember. As a kid on long car journeys I spent hours just gazing at the AA road atlas and reckon I could still identify 95% of Britain's major towns from an unlabelled street plan. A good map is a work of art and I often bore friends about how Belgium's 1:50,000 IGN series is a near masterpiece. One of the pleasures of this (and any) trip has been acquiring detailed maps of the places I travel through. It's fascinating to see how different cartographers interpret their local landscape, intellectually stimulating to use their work to navigate the terrain, and occasionally frustrating when features on the ground don't match what's on paper. My experience has been enhanced immeasurably by finding the right map at the right time, especially through the Czech Republic. The combination of Google maps and GPS receiver on my iPhone has rescued me from a couple of dark culs de sac but I still prefer to plot my route using the contour lines of a good old-fashioned topographical map.